Sunrise over the mighty Angkor Wat

It was an early start as we headed out to the Angkor complex to see sunrise over the temples. I was amazed to see how many tourists were making the same journey in mini buses, tuk tuks and motorcycles.

It was still completely dark at 5.30am as we clambered down the main path into Angkor, a deep moat either side of us - thank god for torches!

Our guide led us to some sort of old building that would give us a view of the main temple. Thousands of tourists closer to the main temple flashed their point and shoot cameras in the darkness, which at least gave us something to focus on.

In that sort of darkness, and without knowing what we were actually looking at or attempting to shoot, it helps to do some test shots at the highest ISO you can crank your camera up to. Even then, you might need to do a 10 second shot to get some idea of the landscape in front of you.

It didn't take long before light began to break through the amazing clouds above us, and the full extent of the size of Angkor Wat was revealed.

Beautiful oranges and reds filled the sky, as the three iconic spires of the temple remained in silhouette. I took about 100 or shots until the sun actually broke through, starting off wide with the Canon 24-70mm lens, then experimenting with the Zeiss 85mm lens. The 24-70mm lens was wide enough to capture the entire scene, whereas the 85mm lens gave me close ups of the three spires in silhouette. Such beautiful colours!!

As the sun rose higher, reflections of the temple and clouds appeared in the large pond between us and the temple. It was an awesome light show, and one definitely worth the early start!








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Exploring the Angkor temple complex

Spread out over some 40 miles around the bustling town of Siem Reap, the Angkor temple complex attracts over 2 million visitors a year.

We made an early start, picking up our 3-day passes for USD$40 at about 8.30am. Busloads of tourists arrived with us, and a steady motorcade of buses, tuk tuks, motorbikes and push bikes shuffled down dusty roads to the main gates.

Laden with mythology, every stone carving tells a story, and there are faces looking down at you everywhere throughout the complex.

The sky was really overcast and glarey, so I shot a lot of photos in sepia mode - I like the in-camera sepia settings and have kept the settings the same, envisaging a series of sepia photos when I get home.

First stop was The Bayon, a huge temple complex built by Jayavarman VII between 1181 and 1220. Known mainly for the many Buddha faces carved into the towers on the third level, we were able to walk up onto the temple for a good look around.






Like most massive structures from centuries gone by, I always wonder how the hell they moved such large volumes and chunks of stone into such incredible buildings that have withstood wars, weather, time and now, thousands of tourists walking over them every day.

Our guide mentioned that over 1,000,000 people hd been seconded to build the Angkor complex; 250,000 to cut stone, 250,000 to transport it to the site, 250,000 to construct the buildings, and the final 250,000 to decorate the interior. I would have loved to have seen all that in action!


We then drove round to a smaller temple called Banteay Srei. It is one of the oldest temples in Angkor, being finished in AD968. Otherwise known as the Rose Temple, or Lady Temple, this temple was unique because of its intricate carvings in pink sandstone.



Driving around the complex and wandering through ruins, each in various stages of restoration, was fascinating. It was nice to get away from the crowds and into some of the smaller, less frantic parts of Angkor. It was also nice to get into the shade - clambering up and down temples all day in mega humid, dusty conditions is pretty hard going, and each time we returned to the bus, we quickly downed a water, coke, or laterr in the afternoon, a beer!

There was an option to visit a butterfly park in the afternoon, and the prospect of having access to 1,500 captive butterflies needed no more than a second thought from this photographer and her boyfriend.

For about an hour, Michael and I chased and photographed exotic butterflies, perched on flowers and leaves, and the food tables in place for them.

Out in the wild, it can be hard to find one or two butterflies, but here, everywhere we looked, a gorgeous thing fluttered by. Sometimes, two or three butterflies tried to land on the same flower! Other tourists gave us weird looks as we chased butterflies and dragonflies, occasionally squealing in delight. Yes, squealing....at least being with another photographer who was doing the same thing, made me feel marginally less ridiculous!

The Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 lens was awesome for chasing butterflies, in lieu of having my macro lens. With high ISO and large aperture, it let me roll off shots with great bokeh and blurred backgrounds, making the colorful little guys pop!









We hooked up again with our tour buddies who had opted to see a landline museum, and all headed up to the final temple, to watch sunset.

We'd been watching the clouds all day, and while they were beautiful, proved to be a little too thick to let the sun shine through.

Hundreds of tourists had the same idea and were draped over the temple, legs dangling over ancient stones, while a local played his violin. While the sunset was average at best, the atmosphere was fantastic. Our first day in Angkor was truly amazing!



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Last day in Bangkok, last day of 2011 - ended with a bang!

For our last day in Bangkok, and indeed, the last day of 2011, we decided to explore the Royal Palace. Walking there from the hotel, we could tell we were getting closer by the increasing number of buses, tuk tuks and tourists. There were people everywhere! Hundreds of thousands of them!

We walked past the great Wat Pho, a temple just near the palace, and wandered in there for a look. Temples in Thailand are all so incredibly ornate, which makes for fantastic photo opportunities.








I love the gargoyles, gods and kings that peer down at you from every angle, and once again went on a sepia rampage - I just love what sepia timings do to these very old stone figures.

Next stop was the palace, and the traffic got even mental than usual...so many tourists trying to cram into the main gate and buy tickets...ugh!

Once in, the palace grounds were packed, and security was pretty visible everywhere we looked.

The buildings were over-the-top ornate, and had more bling than you could poke a chopstick at.









It provided a fascinating glimpse into the life of Thai royalty!

While we could have walked around for hours, the oppressive heat and huge crowds got a bit in our faces, and we headed back into Chinatown for lunch. We found more food markets, and some weird and wonderful Chinese produce on display.






Later that evening, we headed out for street food near the hotel. We'd visited the same street a few nights earlier, and the food was awesome. I had larb gai, which is spicy minced pork, and I reckon it was the best street meal of the trip to date. A couple of beers rounded off our last dinner of 2011.

We were allowed up to the hotel's rooftop bar to take photos, and headed up there at about 11.30 to set up. We had no idea where the fireworks were going to appear, but small bursts had been firing into the sky all night.






As midnight struck, Bangkok went off with bang - or hundreds of bangs all over the place, actually. Fireworks exploded left, right and centre and it was hard to know where to focus.

It was a fitting end to our fabulous 5 days in Bangkok, and it was great to have the "break" before joining the 18 day tour of Cambodia and Vietnam the following day.

2011 was a big year for me - full of ups and downs, but it ended on a huge high, and one I'm sure will carry over into 2012!

Happy New Year to you, wherever and however you celebrated it!!

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The most amazing dinner on top of the world...well, almost

Following a day of tuk tuk madness, we headed off to the State Tower in the ritzy Lebua area of Bangkok, for a dinner to remember.

Back in Australia, I had researched great places to eat in Bangkok, and wanted to treat my boyfriend to an amazing meal, high over the city.

I came across reviews for Breeze Restaurant, which on level 52, was pretty much guaranteed to give us great views over the city, and spectacular modern Asian food.






Breeze certainly exceeded expectations on every front. From the moment we walked into the foyer, we were greeted by a hostess who ushered us into the lift which took us an ear-popping 52 floors up.

All of the tables were outside and open-air, and we walked across a neon light flanked glass walkway into the restaurant.

The views were awesome, and despite not having a tripod, we rolled off some panoramic shots of the city lights, before doing the obligatory DIY couples portrait. None of the diners had two 5D's sitting on their table....

The five course degustation and matched wine menu was on my agenda. Staff flocked around our table, checking that we were comfortable, warm enough, had enough water etc. The service all night was excellent.





A colourful row of shot glasses was placed on the table, all wildly exotic condiments to accompany our meal. Surprisingly, other diners were not photographing each plate as it was laid in front of them...





Every item on the menu was prepared and cooked to perfection. Whoever had matched the wines had also done an amazing job - our favourite for the evening was a moscato which accompanied dessert, and finished the meal in the most tasty way!

Amazing meal and more DIY photos against the now dark blue sky and a bwzillion city lights done, we ventured up to level 62 to the Sky Bar, under the great golden dome of the State Tower building. Sirocco, sister restaurant to Breeze, lives up on the top level, but you can go up to the Sky Bar just for a drink and to admire the view.

A four-piece band pumped out music over the city, and the pretty people mingled over cocktails. It was a fantastic experience, and a meal which I'll never forget.


Once again, getting a cab home proved challenging, and although we looked around and wondered if we'd have another chance meeting with our tuk tuk driver from earlier in the day, he didn't appear.

We found another one who agreed to take us back to the hotel. After five glasses of perfectly matched wine, Bangkok's traffic seemed a little easier to cope with - despite having the most psycho driver of the trip. It kinda looked a little like the picture below....


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Getting tuk-ked in Bangkok

On our third morning in Bangkok, we decided to test fate and try our first tuk tuk ride of the holiday. One of the guidebooks had recommended Siam Square as a bit of a bargain shopping mecca, so with the help of our concierge, we found ourselves in the back of a tuk tuk, hanging on to the bullshit bars for grim life.

Tuk tuk drivers take pretty much any opportunity they can to fill a gap in traffic, if it means moving even a mere inch closer to the final destination. All the while I'm thinking, "do we really need to be *that* close to that bus / garbage truck / car?"





We passed Wat after ornate Wat, and saw the people of Bangkok going about their frantic morning rituals of visiting their local markets, setting up stalls and getting hot pots simmering.

Retail stores here don't typically open until 10am or 11am. When we arrived at the concrete overpass metropolis that was Siam Square, and lurched out of the tuk tuk, a man with a shirt bearing a "Tourism Thailand" logo approached us and asked where we were going. He also said that all of the shops were shut today because it was "the lucky Buddha's birthday". The shops were definitely not shut - people were wandering around in them. This is one of the many scams in Bangkok - "helpful strangers" who ask where you're going and what you're looking for, so they can shuffle you off into a mate's gem or clothing store....we declined, and kept walking.

MBK is one of the larger shops in this area, and we went up to the fourth floor in search of a prepaid mobile sim for my iPad. Talk about mobile phone madness! I've never seen so many mobile phones, iPads and other tablets, plus all of the related accessories and cases. Every colour, size, shape and pattern available, with some pretty gaudy, bejewelled numbers....yeah baby!

We found some pre-paid sim cards and wandered around the massive complex until lunch time. There's never any shortage of places to eat in Bangkok, and today we opted for noodles. I tried prawn dumplings in a clear broth.

It was then time to brave another tuk tuk drive, and we hailed a jolly little Thai man, who haggled for a bit, before settling for the standard process of 100 baht to take us home.

Tuk tuk drivers often turn their vehicles off when waiting at the lights - I guess it saves fuel. Or perhaps they also get sick of what sounds like a persistent and frustrated mosquito....

We hooned through Chinatown and the red glare that hundreds of lanterns emitted. Preparations were being made for Chinese new year, and Chinatown was a frenzy of activity. Markets flanked the main streets, and people mulled about street stalls. It was vibrant, hot and loud.

Back in our hotel, a jacuzzi on the 24th floor, overlooking the city, felt like heaven. There is something very peaceful about escaping the streets of Bangkok, even if only for a few hours.

We set off again late afternoon, looking for a metered cab to take us to dinner in the Lebua area, across town.

Metered cabs are like regular cabs, air conditioned and no fumes of two-stroke. Hailing a metered cab in the afternoon peak proved difficult, so we walked a couple of blocks back into Chinatown and tried again.

Full cab after full cab zoomed by, and a tuk tuk also passed us, driver grinning like mad when we collectively realised it was the guy whonhad driven us back to the hotel earlier that day. What are the chances of running into the same driver twice in the one day??

We told him we needed to get to Lebua, and he said he could take us most of the way for free because he was going in that direction, but that he would have to drop us on the other side of the river. It was easy enough to get a barge across the river and walk to dinner from there, he told us.

The little tuk tuk spluttered its way through the traffic and over a bridge, when our mate suddenly turned off the engine. It was bubbling and gurgling away, boiling water spitting out of a pipe..."overheating", he motioned, as buses and trucks rumbled by, a tad to close for my liking. He stopped and started, and filled up with more water a couple more times before we finally reached Bangkok Pier. What a champion!

We tipped him the cost of standard tuk tuk ride, and he then ushered us right down to the pier, through more crazy markets, and showed us where to take the boat to cross the river.

Even though tuk tuk drivers are (and need to be) certified nutters, this one had a heart of gold!

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Day 2 - Christmas sales, Bangkok style

This morning, it was an early start as we joined a full day tour that would take in some of Bangkok's iconic tourist attractions - the floating markets, The Bridge on the River Kwai and a Tiger Temple.

The Damnoen Sadauk Floating Markets are located about 100km south-west of Bangkok, so it was going to be a big driving day. Nothing like some good quality time in Bangkok's peak hour!

Our mini-bus, weaved erratically through the traffic, dodging vespa drivers who I am convinced had death wishes. As always, some of the sights made me chuckle...barefoot monks waiting patiently in the middle of the street to cross the road, severely overloaded motorbikes and tuk tuks which defied gravity by staying upright and street vendors getting an early start on making their first sale of the day. Sales in the morning apparently bring the vendor good luck.

We arrived at the markets, where we were joined by about 50 people from other mini-buses, and then clambered onto long, square-ended boats called sampan. Each boat held about 10 people, and it felt like our butts were below the waterline. Our lady "helmsman" perched on the back of the boat and set off into the main channel.





Both sides of the canal were lined with stalls and stationary boats that served as both shops and restaurants. The rest of the canal was packed with other boats like ours, occasionally leading to gridlock. It was hilarious!

The deal was, that if you wanted to buy any of the merchandise, you simply asked the driver to pull in to whichever stall took your fancy. The other option was that the stall owner would use a large boat hook to drag your boat over for some more persuasive selling.

You could buy pretty much anything from the floating market - fresh fruit (the pineapple was delicious!), T-shirts, souvenirs, spices and all manner of homewards made from coconut shells. Ladies were also cooking on their boats - their floating kitchens pumped out noodles, tea and coffee, sticky rice and grilled banana...god knows how they did it in those conditions, but it was pretty impressive to watch!

After an hour of floating around the markets, we boarded a motorised long boat to explore more of the surrounding villages. The people of Damnoen Saudauk have definitely adapted to living on the water, which seems to lap literally at their doorstep.Boats of all shapes and sizes are moored outside their homes in "water garages", and other than that, seem to be pretty much like our homes. I wonder how they feel about tourists hooning up their street all day...





Coconut and banana trees lined the canal, and we saw a stack of water lilies, although they seemed to have smaller flowers than the water lillies I'm familiar with.

Despite the long drive, the floating markets were definitely worth visiting. Even though they were set up largely to attract tourists, it gave us an idea of how the Thai people live.

Another hour of hair-raising fun on the motorways ensued, the mini-bus once again driving at break-neck speed, sitting on the tail of more slower cars until they relented and got out of the way.

Lunch was a pre-paid, mass-production of rice, sweet and sour veggies, chicken and cashews, and omelette - not too bad, but I'm hanging for street market food for dinner tonight!

Then it was another 20 minute drive until we reached Kanchanaburi on the banks of the river Kwai. As we walked across the iconic bridge, I realised how little I knew of the history of this area, or its significance in WWII. More reading on that subject when I get home!





On the way back to the bus, we passed a chained leopard cub, which you could pay to cuddle and have your photo taken. We declined on the paid photo, but got some great shots of the cute kitty with our own cameras.

After all the debating, I'm happy I bought the 70-200mm lens with me. There have been times that the 24-70mm lens has not had the reach I needed. The big lens is also great for candid street portraits. I'm also very happy I bought the 85mm Zeiss lens. It was great yesterday in the low light of the markets, and there's just so much interesting stuff to photograph here!

Yet more driving, and we reached the Tiger Temple, which is a huge zoo seemingly run by monks and volunteers.

The main attraction here is that you can have your photo taken with both tiger cubs and fully grown tigers. Tiger Canyon is where the big boys are, and although chained to anchors in the ground and "managed" by at least one, if not two handlers, they still looked pretty fierce. We declined the opportunity to be photographed with the tigers, happy to take photos at arms length. There's still too much of this holiday to go, without becoming an entree. That said, they're such beautiful cats....wish I could have brought one home with me.

We also got to see tiger cubs playing in water, and others being walked on leashes by monks. We'd been warned at the gates not to wear bright colours such as red, orange and pink - the signs said that animals were attracted to such bright colours, which may have posed a danger to us...yet the monks were in bright orange robes. Go figure! My strategy was to hang very closely to the monks, as they'd have likely been entree before me, with all that bright clothing....






With another day of amazing sights under our belts, the long drive back to Bangas began. I could go on about the mental drive home - like the family who drove alongside of us in the back of their ute....it looked like all three generations were jammed into the tray; or the workers who were jammed in the back of a station wagon, driving along with the boot door open....

So for the most part, I used the drive home to write this post....as Michael will attest, the less I see of Thai driving, the more relaxed I am ;)

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Day 1 in Bangkok - assault on the senses!

After a l-o-n-g day of flying, a transit in Singapore, and another shorter flight, we finally arrived in Bangkok last night, ready to explore the city that never sleeps.

We're staying in the Grande Ville Hotel in the Chinatown district of Bangkok. It seems pretty central, and even 18 floors up, we can hear the endless din of the traffic, the occasional squeal of brakes, and the incessant car horns. Thai drivers really love their car horns!

I'm on a mission to try something new, food-wise, every day. The hotel puts on a great buffet breakfast, and as well as some fantastic pineapple and watermelon, I tried a fruit that kinda tasted like a cross between a pear and a potato. There was a sugary looking mixture with what looked chilli flakes mixed through it, near this mystery fruit, so I sprinkled some on and had a taste. It turned out to be salt mixed with sugar, which gave it all a fairly bizarre sweet and salty taste. Not sure I'll go back for that tomorrow, but it was worth a go.

We then donned the camera gear and started the day's walk down to the Chao Phraya river. It was looking pretty full and full of debris after the recent floods - I can only imagine how much water came through this city in what were its worst floods in 70 years.

As soon as you step outside the relative peace of the hotel, Bangkok screams at your senses to wake up, and see, hear, smell, touch and taste everything it has to offer.





Tuk tuks, cars, taxis, buses, trucks and motorcycles jockey for position down the crowded streets, changing "lanes" without indication, using their horns instead. People squeeze down the narrow footpath between the road and the shops, with all manner of food, electronics, clothes and kitchenware out for sale.

Narrow, grotty little alleyways spear off to the right and left, with shafts of light beaming down through holes in tarpaulins. Everywhere, there is the smell of something delicious cooking - corn over hot coals, chicken on skewers, and huge pans with hot stuff simmering away. There are also foul smells - the rubbish on the streets, dog poop, and rank water running through the drains.

We walked down to the Pak Khlong Market on the river. It was a huge complex and completely frantic, even at 11am. Fresh food and produce was bundled, bagged and stacked as far as the eye could see - four bwzillion types of "Asian greens"' enough garlic to keep the world's vampire population at bay for the next three centuries, and all of the delicious ingredients such as limes, lemongrass, chillis and basil, that you associate with Thai food.





There were hilarious sighs in the markets - cats making comfy beds in bowls of limes, tiny ladies trying to wheel huge, full trolleys through the tiny, crowded isles, and all sortsa weird offal that I prefer not to ponder too much. We walked past one food stall, where the guy was cooking "spicy chicken" so spicy, that standing within 30ft of him, made us cough in that "chilli's got the back of your throat" kinda way. For 30 baht, or a mere AUD$1, it looked like an amazing meal.

Photographically, the markets were a visual paradise - so many colours and textures, and sights just a tad different from good old Brisvegas. Seeing different things, and how other people live, is one of the reasons I Iove traveling so much.

A photo board showed photos of how the floods had effected this market - it almost looked like the Rocklea markets post-floods. It's great to see the Thai people getting back on their feet and trading so soon after such devastating events...I guess it's the same everywhere - when your livelihood is effected, you do whatever it takes to get back on deck.

We continued our walk through various parts of downtown Bangkok. We were frequently offered tuk tuks to transport us, but preferred to walk. I reckon you see more when you're not hanging off the back of a mobile death trap. I will definitely have a tuk tuk ride at some stage, but it was great to be able to stop and take photos whenever we wanted.

The temples here are large, ornate and everywhere. "Wat" is the word for temple. "Which Wat is that?" became my question du jour....it made me giggle anyway :)





We wandered up to Wat Indrawiharn, where the main attraction was the 105ft/32m tall standing Buddha. Good grief it was large! Cats and tourists strolled around the complex, the cats looking for cosy beds in the sun, and tourists seeking the shade.

After being immersed in food markets all morning, we decided to go for the street food option for lunch outside Wat Indrawiharn. We both tried spicy chicken fried with holy basil and rice. Delicious! And such a bargain at 30 baht per dish.

Next stop was the Thewet Flower Market, which is both a great smelling and looking place to explore. Flower sellers sat round plucking damaged petals off their roses and bundling at least two dozen in a bunch, then wrapped the lot in newspaper. In some cases, the buds were individually wrapped in what looked like a specially made foam. I loved how far they went to protect the flowers!





As well as cars and tuk tuks, boats are a popular and convenient way to get around this city. We headed down to the nearest pier and caught the Chao River Express, a "river bus", back towards the Memorial Bridge, where we'd more or less started our day at the markets.

The boats fang it up and down the river with no apparent speed limits. Long boats zoom past tugboats, which are pulling or pushing massive barges. It all feels a bit James Bond-esque. Docking at each pier down the line is a loud and occasionally whiplash-inducing experience, where a boat hand whistles loudly to signal the boat is coming into a pier. Then the captain does an intricate series of movements, shoving the motors into forward and reverse, to shunt the boat (rather violently) into position....but we got to our destination in the end!





Our hotel has a rooftop bar on the 24th floor, which provides a pretty spectacular view over the city. Cocktails on the rooftop seemed like the perfect way to end our first day in Bangkok!

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Hello bokeh!

Christmas...it's one of those times when all the pretty lights scream one thing....BOKEH!

Derived from the Japanese language, bokeh "is the blur or the aesthetic quality of the blur in out-of-focus areas of an image, or "the way the lens renders out-of-focus points of light." Differences in lens aberrations and aperture shape cause some lens designs to blur the image in a way that is pleasing to the eye, while others produce blurring that is unpleasant or distracting - "good" and "bad" bokeh, respectively. Bokeh occurs for parts of the scene that lie outside the depth of field. Photographers sometimes deliberately use a shallow focus technique to create images with prominent out-of-focus regions." - according to Wikipedia.

Anyway, last night was a great opportunity to whip out my Zeiss Planar T* 1,4/85 lens and take advantage of its amazing shallow focus, while roaming round the colourful streets of Brisbane's Jindalee.

The first image below shows what the amazing "light house" looked like - some 80,000 hand-strung lights twinkled in an unbelievable 15-minute choreographed piece of blinking artwork. The other shots show slightly out-of-focus shots ranging from f/1.6 up to f/2.8.

My Zeiss lens is manual focus, so it's quite easy to get out of focus shots - simply twiddle the focus ring in the wrong direction, and voila....out of focus shots! But the more I played around with this counter-intuitive, out-of-focus style of photography, the more I liked it. There's more shots from the evening on my Flickr stream.

ISO 1600 | f4.0 | 1/20

ISO 800 | f1.6 | 1/40

ISO 800 | f/2.0 | 1/100
One of my buddies used the Lensbaby Creative Aperture Kit to create some gorgeous heart and star shaped bokeh at the same scene - check out her images here on Flickr.

"Get it sharp" is the mantra that's typically drilled into photographers from the word go, but you can have an awesome time experimenting with out of focus shots and shallow depth of field. Give it a go - it's the perfect time of year to play with bokeh!