Japan..."stay strong and united"

A small plaque at Naritsan Temple just six weeks ago...

It's hard to believe that just six weeks ago, my wonderful week-long holiday in Japan was coming to an end. Mum and I were diverted home from Tokyo via Singapore after our outbound flight was cancelled due to volcanic ash in the Kyushu area. Perhaps that was a warning of things to come...

For me, our brief trip to Japan had provided a much welcome escape from Queensland's "Big Wet", and the unplanned evacuation from and re-location back into my Teneriffe apartment during the devastating floods which engulfed large parts of Australia's third largest city. At least I had a dry, undamaged home to return to.

We were fortunate to arrive home from Tokyo just a few days ahead of Cyclone Yasi, one of the most powerful cyclones ever to smash the Far North Queensland coast. A couple of weeks later, a massive earthquake struck the beautiful New Zealand city of Christchurch.

It feels like the news in 2011 has been one continual waterlogged story of death and devastation. It feels like each of these natural disasters has grown exponentially in scope and destruction - the stories of loss seemingly far outweighing the stories of survival. And yet, I've been morbidly transfixed by the TV footage and unbelievable, "before and after photos" each day. There has also been an incredible display of community spirit - locally and globally - after each disaster. Each day seems to give birth to yet another much needed disaster relief fund.

And just when we in the Pacific didn't think things could get a whole lot worse, Mother Nature threw a complete hissy fit last Friday and squeezed out an 8.9-magnitude earthquake off the coast of Northern Japan. As if the quake, which apparently rocked and rolled the beautiful island nation a couple of metres sideways - permanently, was not bad enough, a series of tsunamis then smashed the coast and everything in their path.

The Japanese coined the phrase "tsunami". Situated in the Pacific "Rim of Fire" atop a couple of restless tektonic plates, this is a country used to earthquakes and the subsequent big waves which such massive releases of energy generate. Sophisticated early warning systems are located around the Japanese coastline, and the buildings are apparently built to withstand pretty severe shaking.

But we've since learned that this monster quake was some 8,000 times more intense in energy than the Christchurch earthquake. Who'd have thought that was even possible?

We've heard that a wall of water, in some cases up to 10 metres high and travelling at 800 kilometres an hour - the speed of a jet aircraft in flight - completely flattened towns such as Sendai, Otsuchi, Minamisoma, Minami Sinraku, Rikuzentakat...and the list goes on.

It's heartbreaking to think that several thousand people have already died in this latest tragedy; that some four days later, there are thousands of missing people who will most likely never be found; that search and rescue teams and the armed forces still can't even get into some of the small villages to begin to assess the loss; that hundreds of thousands of Japanese people are tonight separate from their loved ones, still without homes, power and food - all of this in the middle of a cold winter. Add to that the growing threat of multiple nuclear emergencies, and you can't help but wonder, WHEN WILL IT ALL STOP? When will this battered country get some sort of a reprieve and see an end to a disaster which just seems to keep unfolding?

My heart breaks with every tragic image I see of this awesome country in turmoil. I am desperately sad seeing images of the stoic Japanese people, whose world has fallen apart - yet who remain calm, and warrior-like in their resolve to keep going, seemingly against all odds. They are indeed inspirational.

I took the photo in this post on my first day in Japan - spotting it by chance out of the thousands of similar little handwritten messages hanging off racks around the Narita-san temple complex. After the Queensland floods, it was like I was meant to see that little plaque.

And so to the Japanese people, I say in return, that I hope you too can overcome this disaster, and stay strong and united. xx

Exploring the old town of Asakusa

Asakusa is one of the first precincts I saw in Tokyo, when I first visited Japan about 20 years ago. I think I originally went there on the recommendation of my highschool Japanese teacher. In any case, I've been there a few times now, and it always feels like a very familiar part of Tokyo when I see it.

It's got a lovely old-town, traditional feel to it, and is home to a number of historic Buddhist temples. The Asakusa Kannon Temple, or Sensoji, is perhaps the most well known (and photographed), and I was pleased to see that nothing had really changed when I visited earlier this week.

According to a local fact sheet, Sensoji Temple is Japan's oldest Buddhist Temple "for ordinary people". Inside the complex there are permanent stalls, which sell handmade sweets, rice crackers and other local delicacies, and all sorts of traditional Japanese souvenirs and gifts.

The grounds of Sensouji Temple (HDR'd)

Worshippers flock into Senoji Temple, Japan's oldest public Buddhist Temple

One of the things you can do in the complex, is have your fortune "told", for a mere 100 Yen (or AUD$1.20). When in Japan, do as the Japanese do, right??

So, there is a tin, which you are instructed to "shake politely". A long skewer with a number (written at one end in Japanese symbols) falls through the hole. You match the number on the skewer to the corresponding box on the wall (there are probably 100 or so boxes), slide the box open, and take one sheet of pre-printed paper - this is your fortune. The fortunes are graded from "Excellent Good Fortune", to "Regular", to what we gathered was "It's all Turning to Shite Fortune". Mum and I chose the first two, respectively, and were quite happy to leave it at that.

After you've read your fortune, you tie it to one of the nearby metal bars. Not sure of the significance of leaving it there, but we did as everyone else (locals and tourists alike) was doing, had a giggle and headed off to look for lunch.

You too can have your fortune read at the Temple

Pick a trinket, any trinket! Stalls in the Sensoji Temple complex

A day in Narita

The township of Narita seems to be largely overlooked by tourists although is frequented by airline cabin crew because of its proximity to the airport.

Just 15 minutes by cab from Narita's International Airport, Narita's main attraction is Naritasan Shinshoji Temple, or the more familiar, Naritasan. It's one of the largest Buddhist temples in the region and thousands of Japanese flock to the complex every day. We were lucky enough to see it on a Sunday under perfect blue skies.

Our first glimpse of the complex came from the front window of our ryokan - we had a fantastic view over the entire main entrance, and were close enough to hear the gonging of the bells at 6.00am and 5.00pm each day.

On our first morning in Narita, we saw a procession of monks in traditional kimono-like robes and wooden platform clogs, shuffle over to this building in the photo below, bow at the entrance, and come back out again 10 minutes later, shuffling away as quickly as their clogs would take them. We gathered this was part of the daily prayer ritual. After they'd finished, an attendant came out and swept the area, and then moved a large wooden chest in front of the doorway, into which people tossed coins before they came there to prayy throughout the day.

One of the buildings in the Naritasan Temple complex

According to the Japan Guide website, Naritasan "was built in the year 940 around its main sacred object of worship, a statue of the Buddhist Fudo Myoo deity. Kobo Daishi, the founder of the Shingon Sect and one of the most important figures in Japan's religious history, is said to have carved the statue."

A number of buildings and shrines are dotted throughout the complex, which then backs on to Narita Park, a peaceful oasis in the middle of this bustling little city. The Great Pagodo of Peace looked lovely with a touch of frost in the foreground. It's all very ornate and well cared for, and the grounds around the complex are spotless.

The Great Pagoda of Peace

Visitors typically arrive at one of the train stations at the top of the hill that leads down to Naritasan. We saw it both early morning when things were quiet, and mid-afternoon when the crowds swelled!

Main street of Narita, brimming with people, traditional foods and crafts

The main street is lined with shops and stalls, selling all manner of food specialties and crafts from the region. We saw soba noodles and rice crackers being made by hand, fresh eel being consumed as quickly as it could be filleted and barbequed; and gelatenous sweets and candied fish that looked slightly more dubious.

Fancy a candied fish??

There are stacks of restaurants in the area, and over 60 (I read) that specialise in barbequed unagi (eel). This was clearly a crowd favourite judging by the queues of people waiting to get into the unagi restaurants. We had rice and noodle dishes for lunch, with the obligatory rice, miso soup and green tea.

Narita is definitely worth a visit if you get the chance. I've visited on stopovers to Europe, and it's easy to get into the city from the airport. Staying in a ryokan, like Wakamatsu Honten, where we stayed, gives an even more authentic feel to it all - it's Japanese, but not as "in your face" as Tokyo. You actually get a feel for traditional Japanese life.

There's more photos of Narita and Naritsan on my Flickr feed.

Looking for a real adventure? Try a traditional Japanese breakfast...

One of the best parts about staying at a ryokan, is that you can order traditional breakfast and/or dinner to be served in your room.

Breaky at Wakamatsu Honten ryokan, where we stayed for two nights, was amazing. The presentation was immaculate, and the food ultra fresh. That's the way with Japanese food - it's incredibly fresh and flawless. It's typically pretty healthy too.

Japanese breakies aren't for the faint-hearted or fussy. Mum and I have often had no idea what we've been eating, and sometimes it has been hard to distinguish whether the tasty morsels have been animal, mineral or vegetable. It's a good thing we're game, cos if we'd be pretty hungry if we'd have waited for cornflakes to be served.

Breakfast, like most meals in Japan, consists of rice (gohan), miso soup (or some variety of clear soup), pickles (and there seem to be hundreds of pickled things to choose from - ginger, cucumber, root vegetables - you name it, they'll pickle it), some sort of fish (we've eaten a LOT of salmon), and oddly, a small packet of dried seaweed - like the kind you use to make nori rolls. The breaky at Wakamatsu Honten also included a little salad, tofu and sliced oranges.

Oh - and then there's green tea. Which accompanies every meal - sometimes two or three cups. There seems to be an endless supply of ocha (Japanese tea), kocha (black tea) and kohi (coffee).

Traditional Japanese Breakfast

Our one dinner at Wakamatsu Honten, which was a real treat, and something I was fortunate enough to try here about three years ago - was absolutely incredible, taste and presentation-wise. As well as the obligatory rice, pickles, soup and green tea, there were small plates of the freshest sashimi, delicious morsels of seafood terrine, grilled eel, grilled pork belly and a bubbling hotpot with Japanese mushrooms and all manner of yummy stuff.

Both breakfast and dinner are served on a delightful mish-mash of serving platters, bowls and dishes. It's as much as the overall presentation as it is taste, and the Japanese are very focussed on the "power of five". I came across this fascinating blog post about how Japanese cooking seeks to incorporate the five senses, fve colours, five tastes, five ways and five attitudes.

With so much care, and attention to detail in preparation and cooking, it's no wonder that Japanese food, pretty much everywhere in Japan, from supermarkets and fast-food outlets, to the high-end restaurants, is outstanding!

Traditional Japanese Dinner

Sashimi - it's all about fish!

Pickles of some description accompany virtually every meal

Crab claw rolled in crushed rice crackers

Inside a ryokan - a traditional Japanese guesthouse

It's been a long time between blog posts because Mum and I have been travelling! Last Saturday night, we arrived in Japan for a week's holiday.

Our plan was to stay in Narita for the first two nights, then Tokyo (about an hour by train from Narita) for the next five. Having visited Japan a couple of times before, we wanted to stay in ryokans in both cities - traditional Japanese guesthouses, quite similar to B&Bs.

The ryokan at Narita was somewhat of a luxury version, and much larger than the one in Tokyo. It was huge!

You might notice that there are no beds in traditional ryokans. As you can see in the first couple of pictures, there is minimal furniture altogether, and it's quite lightweight and easily moved. The sliding panels (which feel like rice paper mounted to wooden batons), slide back and forth to section off parts of the living space.

Once dinner is over each evening (in the Narita ryokan, we could choose to have dinner in the room), the Futon Man comes to the room, bows furiously before entering the living area, moves the table, and rolls out the futons, which are stored in cupboards in the room. He repeats the whole process each morning, stripping the sheets and rolling the thin mattresses up for storage.

The floor is made of tatami matting, and you do not wear shoes anywhere in the ryokan. They're left at the door and swapped for socks, which are typically provided by the ryokan. If you want to walk around the ryokan, say down to the lobby or communal bath, you can wear slippers provided in your room.

This particular ryokan had a bathroom, although many have shared facilities outside of the rooms. It was tiny, but came with the mandatory electrically heated toilet seat (great for those chilly winter days), and a deep bath and shower area. I'll cover bathing Japanese-style in another blog post!

Ryokans also provide yukata's (similar to kimono's), to wear in the room and around the ryokan. That's the folded thing in the last picture. Whack it on with your slippers, and you're feeling well and truly Japanese desu ne!

One of the biggest camera shops in the world...

 It's now just two weeks before I fly out to Tokyo, and I've been researching things to see and do during my week there.

Of course, I began researching camera equipment and have been trying to get a feel for whether gear in Japan is cheaper than in Australia. Virtually all travel guides, blog posts and news articles reference Shinjuku as the photography equipment hub in Tokyo, and Akibahara as the electronics centre. And then I started to read about retail juggernaut, Yodobashi - which has mega stores in both Shinjuku and Akibahara, and a total of 21 stores throughout Japan. My credit card is twinging nervously at the thought...

There doesn't seem to be an English version of the Yodobashi site, but by all accounts, these are two of the largest camera shops in the world. I came across a Flickr feed of photos taken in the Yodabashi mega stores and reckon it's going to be about as close to camera heaven as I'm ever going to come. That said, I've heard the B&H store in New York is pretty impressive!


Frommers reports that the original Yodobashi store in Shinjuku stocks over 30,000 products and reputedly sells between 500-600 cameras daily. That's a whole lot of shootin' gong on! Apparently the newer Akibahara store is even bigger - and both are open from 9.30am to 10pm everyday. Imagine being able to pop out and buy your next L-series lens at 9.30pm one Tuesday evening. Drool!

The various reports I've read suggest that camera gear is generally not going to be cheaper in Japan - but that it's worth a haggle. You can bet I'm not going to die wondering!

14 sleeps to go, and counting!

Friday's Fantasy: Ginza Crossing

Ginza Crossing, originally uploaded by /\ltus.

It's only about 7 weeks until I fly out to Tokyo with Mum - can't wait! I found this photo on Flickr, of Ginza, the mad shopping district of Tokyo. I'm hoping to get some pics just like this when I'm there - if Mum, a non-photographer, will put up with the boredom of long exposures :)

Have an awesome weekend!

Friday's Fantasy: Japan in Winter

winter / snow / architecture / red / yoshida shrine, kyoto japan, originally uploaded by momoyama.

It's been a few weeks between Friday Fantasy images, but here's a delicious one of Kyoto under snow, taken by Flickr user momoyama. Click on momoyama's link below to check out the rest of their stunning images from Japan.

Very excited that I'll be in Japan in two months :D